“Fear of God” and the creak of fashion. Why the popularity of Soviet things is returning

Weekly “Arguments and facts” № 37. When will the “old age” pills appear? 09/15/2021

Smart home in & nbsp; USSR developed in & nbsp; 1980 & nbsp; g. In & nbsp; it was possible to control the equipment by voice, there was a computer, a videophone, & nbsp; & ndash; said Alexandra Sankova , director of the Moscow Design Museum and & nbsp; expert in the documentary series Internet & shy; 'Soviet Design', which was shot at & nbsp; Gorky Film Studio.

Test for & nbsp; armchairs

History Soviet design is not at all like & nbsp; western. There, design was one of the main ways of promoting the products in the competition. In & nbsp; USSR, there was no market struggle. So what was the role of design?

& ndash; The leadership of the young Land of Soviets called for the rejection of the Tsarist past. And & nbsp; in the early 1920s & nbsp; the constructivists got down to work. People moved from individual to community, public life, ate in canteens, handed over their children to kindergartens, lived in apartments or common houses. In & nbsp; 1925 & nbsp; g. at & nbsp; International exhibition of & nbsp; Paris, the USSR showed the constructivist pavilion Konstantin Melnikov … Everyone was delighted. But & nbsp; soon constructivism at & nbsp; has been recognized to us as an ideologically alien phenomenon, and & nbsp; research into new shapes for & nbsp; familiar everyday things became less active. & Nbsp;

The All-Union House of Fashion Models (ODMO) model L. Mironova presents a coat from the new collection “ Winter-1968 & # 39; & # 39; on the Cathedral Square. Context: Cathedral of the Annunciation in the Moscow Kremlin (15th century). Photo: RIA Novosti/Victor Tchernov.

Design came back to life in the country after the Great Patriotic War. In & nbsp; 1962 & nbsp; g. the resolution of the Council of Ministers & timid; ditch on & nbsp; improve the quality of consumer goods has been published. A small living space demanded a new kind of furniture, as huge wardrobes that could easily fit in the & nbsp; stalinkas, at & nbsp; Khrushchev, consumed half of the living space. Thus functionalism entered the & nbsp; Soviet design: compact furniture, tables on & nbsp; unscrewed feet, armchairs with & nbsp; wooden armrests & nbsp; & ndash; very, by the way, a worthy piece of furniture. The deflection, backrest tilt was calculated with the help of scientists and tested in focus groups. At that time, carpets were often hung on the walls, which served two functions at the same time & nbsp; & ndash; soundproofing and & nbsp; keeping warm in the & nbsp; bedroom.

The furniture in & nbsp; USSR was developed in the All-Russian project & timid; but-design and & nbsp; technological & nbsp; Furniture Institute. To & nbsp; exhibits showed the author's prototypes, but they did not reach the buyer. The Artistic and Technical Council approved the development, and & nbsp; then it was necessary to implement it in & nbsp; production & shy; in. And & nbsp; here it started: “ There are no such props, no painting is planned, we don't do & nbsp; we do not produce staples. & # 39; & # 39; As a result, & nbsp; the light appeared & shy; something is not the most aesthetic, but useful in & nbsp; daily life. & Nbsp;

How the cattle trucks were ennobled

In & nbsp; USSR, which has become fashionable in & nbsp; restructuring of the word 'conversion' no one knew, as the stools could be planed at the factory in & nbsp; which produced satellites, in the workshops where the shells were stamped, the vessels melted, and & nbsp; the 'shy; armor factory tank technology produced & timid; toy military sets.

& ndash; One of the iconic figures of Soviet design was Yuri Soloviev … After the war he became the & nbsp; head of the mechanical industry & ndash; the & nbsp; who had a very ascetic office. Soloviev offered to arrange it in a more interesting way. But & nbsp; the leader rejected, said it would be better if Soloviev ennobled passenger cars. Their & nbsp; then consisted of & nbsp; wagons, that in & nbsp; people called 'cattle trucks', they didn't even have seats. Soloviev invented a reserved seat with & nbsp; folding shelves and & nbsp; more expensive compartment cars. & Nbsp;

Once Soloviev organized an invitation in & nbsp; USSR of famous American designer Raymond Lowy … He signed contracts with & nbsp; Zenit, ZIL, Moskvich and & nbsp; presented their projects. What started here! Officials shouted, “ This American doesn't understand anything about & nbsp; our technology! & # 39; & # 39; Lowy's modifications were applied in minimal form only in the production of the ZIL refrigerator.

There have been cases of successful collaboration between designers and industrial production. In & nbsp; USSR, the world's largest super powerful mining dump truck BelAZ was developed. The porcelain board was really our pride. For example, a crystal vase received an award at the exhibition of & nbsp; to & nbsp; Brussels in & nbsp; 1958 & nbsp; g. Or & nbsp; samovar “ Sputnik '', which was & nbsp; really similar to & nbsp; satellite: a kind of fusion of Russian and & nbsp; Soviet. The & nbsp; samovar came with a teapot and a & nbsp; tray. But it costs up to 17 & nbsp; rubles. Perhaps that is why Sputnik It was not in high demand by the population, but it was often presented as a keepsake to astronauts or Western guests.

Who invented the 'smart home'

There was a & nbsp; USSR and & nbsp; advanced design department. Its employees have tried to guess before & shy; which of & nbsp; products will be in demand in & nbsp; 20 years. Some engineers suggested a cabin of a wagon configuration, in which you could easily roll a stroller. Someone even suggested then implementing a separate garbage collector.

& ndash; In & nbsp; 1980 & nbsp; g. at & nbsp; public court was presented 'smart home' & nbsp; SPHINX & nbsp; & ndash; futuristic design of the home of the future. The flat screens were not only on the mainframe, but also on the videophones. But & nbsp; here in the & nbsp; battle with & nbsp; young designers entered the ergonomics department. Officials argued that the flat phone would never be & nbsp; enter & nbsp; production because & hellip; it is inconvenient to apply it on a round head. In & nbsp; 'smart home' it was possible to control the technology by voice, there was a central processor, large data storage, video intercom, spherical speakers. For & nbsp; that time, it was amazing technology. & Nbsp;

& quot; The pants turn & hellip; & raquo;

The general & nbsp; Union Fashion House was responsible for fashion in & nbsp; USSR, & nbsp; subordinate to which & nbsp; 12 regional fashion houses were.

& ndash; The Model House sold pattern designs to factories all over the USSR. But & nbsp; factories fashionable things simplified & nbsp; & ndash; fabric replaced and & nbsp; accessories, sewn the best they could. Here, for & nbsp; for example, Bologna has become fashionable. USSR buys factory in Bologna, produces fabric in large quantities. As a result, a million people had identical Bolognese raincoats in the closet. The same story with the plush.

And & nbsp; in the 1960s. Fashion designer Alla Levashova came to Legprom … She suggested to sew different patterns according to & nbsp; a pattern: something with & nbsp; short sleeve, something & nbsp; & ndash; with & nbsp; long, something & nbsp; & ndash; with & nbsp; frills, something without. Sewn up 500 & nbsp; parts in & nbsp; only one batch. Coats made of & nbsp; from the same Bologna were decorated with different ornaments, and & nbsp; some even warmed up. Thus, the first limited articles appeared on the streets of the USSR. They were sold out instantly.

Levashova tried to make fashion accessible to women in the council, wrote letters to the Ministry of Light Industry, some even in verse. She persuaded the officials, “We have such nightgowns, such women's dressing gowns being sold, that people's families are falling apart!” Our ladies used to dress really at home in the 'fear of god' style, now they don't even go to garden anymore. Levashova managed to get the release of cute pajamas. And & nbsp; men's fashion was still limited to any kind of coats and & nbsp; fawn hats.

In the & nbsp; 1970s and & nbsp; women, and & nbsp; men began to “go crazy” about & nbsp; jeans, and & nbsp; our factories have tried to produce something similar to & nbsp; what people saw in & nbsp; western movies. Synthetics were in great demand. Capron & nbsp; & ndash; the very squeaking! The 1980 Olympics brought sporty style into fashion and the famous 'Two Balls' sneakers, which were worn by young people. But & nbsp; the most massive production was still on & nbsp; clothes & nbsp; special & shy & nbsp; & ndash; bathrobes, costumes. All the workers, traders, saleswomen, masons wore black, gray, blue coats and suits. All the students also wore the same uniform. & Nbsp; & nbsp;

Of course, one can blame the Soviet design for its monotony, its impersonality, its minimalism, but nobody will refuse it in quality! Now the fashion of & nbsp; Soviet vintage has passed not only among those born in & nbsp; USSR, but also among young people. And & nbsp; the task of the series “ Soviet design '' I just saw in & nbsp; preserve our history, our cultural codes. Soviet design & nbsp; & ndash; an important part of the material culture of our & shy; country.

Источник aif.ru

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